John's Guide to Playa Del Inglés, Gran Canaria
Our last visit to Gran Canaria was in October 2006. If you would like me to make any additions or corrections please email paws (at) dircon.co.uk
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John's Guide to Playa Del Inglés, Gran Canaria
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This is a personal guide to Gran Canaria in general, and Playa Del Inglés/ Maspalomas in particular, based on seven holidays on the island. Dave and I are gay leathermen and so this is written with that bias.
Gran Canaria is 28 degrees up from the equator, level with Algeria and Egypt. The main language is Spanish and the currency is the euro. In October 2006 the exchange rate was between 1.4 and 1.6 euros to the pound.
The weather is almost constant sunshine all year round with passing clouds. If you're very unlucky it will rain, ranging from light drizzle to a torrential downpour, but this is rare. It's slightly cloudier in October, some rain in November and December and a bit colder in January and February - but still very pleasant. The island is at its most green and lush in March after the winter rain. It becomes progressively more barren until September/ October. To see a weather forecast for Gran Canaria for the next five days click here.
Las Palmas (the capital) is in the north of the island, the airport is half way down the east coast and Playa del Inglés is on the southern-most point. Playa del Inglés has the best weather and is usually warmer and drier than Las Palmas.
Electricity runs on a 220 volt, 2 pin plug, so UK travellers usually need only bring a 2 pin "Southern Europe" adapter. On one occasion our accommodation required "Northern Europe" adapters, so it's probably wise to bring both.
The only major crime on the island is theft from tourists. Hire a safe in your apartment (typically 20 euros per week) and put everything of value in it unless it's on your person. Always know where your wallet is and don't go drinking immediately after withdrawing lots of money from a cashpoint.
GAY PRIDE MASPALOMAS is usually held in the second week in May. Their official website is www.gaypridemaspalomas.com
Monarch Airlines is a charter carrier from London Gatwick to Gran Canaria, but there are lots of airlines flying to the island now. The service is friendly but as with all economy flights don't expect any legroom - an aisle seat really is worth asking for. The flight takes 4 hours from Gatwick airport.
The following tour operators have advertised package holidays to Gran Canaria in the UK gay press: AMRO WORLDWIDE (www.amroholidays.com), MANTRAV (www.mantrav.co.uk) and THROB (www.throb.co.uk).
Gay accommodation in Playa del Inglés includes: VILLAS BLANCAS (www.villasblancas.com) in Campo de Golf; PASION TROPICAL (www.pasion-tropical.com) and CLUB MANCHA (www.clubmancha.com).
THE BASEMENT STUDIOS opened in December 2006 directly opposite the Yumbo Center. The studios complex is a members only environment for gay men and operates a strict dresscode of nudity or jockstraps. (www.basementstudiosgc.co.uk)
We've never stayed at a hotel on the island, always preferring to stay at a complex of apartments around a shared pool. The Campo de Golf district is sheltered in the lee of a hill, which means you can still sunbathe even when it's too windy to visit the beach. However, you'll need to take a taxi to go to the main shopping and nightlife.
In August 2005 someone emailed to recommend the Eugenia Victoria hotel (www.dilos.com/hotel/2136), which is not far from the Yumbo Center. The Riu Palace Maspalomas has also been recommended.
Gran Canaria is a duty free island, with apparently no "weights and measures" legislation. Bar staff pour drinks freehand, so depending on how friendly you are spirits are usually served by the triple, wine by a third of a pint and sangria by the jug. On our first visit the guidebook recommended that we avoid all local water and even refuse ice in drinks. However, staff inform us that all ice used in public places must be bought from a single, regulated source and so is perfectly safe. (We've gone back to having ice in drinks with no ill effects.)
Perfume and aftershave is also duty free, but we've been advised to only buy goods in cellophane (clear plastic) wrapping as this is meant to cut down on counterfeit goods. How true this is we don't know, but we've followed the advice anyway.
Be careful buying electronic equipment in any shopping centre. Make sure you try the exact item you're about to buy and then don't let it out of your sight before you leave the shop.
Traffic drives on the right hand side of the road in Gran Canaria as in the rest of Spain. It is possible to hire cars, motorbikes and quad bikes but bring a valid driving licence with you if you plan to do so.
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Taxis are ubiquitous in Playa del Inglés. They are white and red cars and have a green light on top when available for hire. At certain times of day, (for example 7pm - 10pm), is impossible to go for 30 seconds without passing an available taxi. Other times (e.g. after midnight) you might have to walk to a main road or taxi rank, but you still won't have to wait long.
Taxi drivers are very proud of their cars, which are always spotless. They are less likely to pick you up if you are wearing fetish gear and won't take you at all if you're covered in sand. A typical taxi journey in Playa del Inglés costs 4 euros (£2.65), including tip. If you want to take a trip outside the resort it's much cheaper to go by bus. There are bus stops outside most major shopping centres. The longest bus journey we've taken was to Las Palmas in 2001, which took 1 hour and cost 7.5 euros (£5) each way for 2 people. |
"A number of buses (30 is the best), run from the road by the airport to Playa Del Ingles all stopping in the main resort areas such as the Yumbo and Cita Center. You won't be waiting longer than 20 minutes during the day and luggage is not a problem. For these buses you leave the arrivals hall and cross over to the coach station. Turn right and follow the pathway for a 5 minute walk, passing under the dual carriageway and coming up on the far side of it. Cross the road to your left and there are a series of bus shelters. To the right of these is the main road out of the airport. Follow this up onto the motorway where you will find a bus stop for Playa del Ingles. The 30 minute journey costs 6 euros compared with a taxi cost of 40-50 euros depending on the time of day. These are express buses.
The 66 service (not express) runs hourly from the terminal where the package holiday coaches are, at quarter past the hour from 07:15 to 22:15. In the confusion of all the many coaches in this area it is easily missed.
Car Hire - Car hire costs from 15 euros a day and about 23 euros per day for an air conditioned model. Recommended is the gay owned car hire company "Quality Cars".
There is a good two days worth of exploring the quieter parts of the island and mountain areas not seen by the tours or bus routes and this makes car hire well worth while."
If you want to do something other than sunbathe by the pool or drink in the Yumbo, you can go on organised day trips for gay groups every day of the week. Each day involves a different mode of transport, so you can choose from a jeep drive, catamaran trip, downhill bike ride, quad bike tour etc. There are posters around the gay bars advertising the trips, but Bar Nestor (ground floor of the Yumbo Center) appears to collect the deposit for most of them. Book early in the week as most excursions have limited places and are soon sold out. Also bring an alarm clock with you, because the trips often begin earlier than 10am and you won't get your money back if you oversleep.
If you want to go on a jeep ride bring warm clothing as it can be very cold on top of the mountains. We've gone on DORIS'S GAY JEEP SAFARI and can recommend it, although you will end up with some bruises from the pot holes in the mountain trails. The jeep tour lasts from 9:30am to 5pm and includes breakfast, lunch and some wine tasting. Price 45 euros.
In November 2002 we went on the GAY CATAMARAN TOUR. This also costs 45 euros, which includes lunch, banana boat rides and unlimited free drink. The big drawback is that it's so popular you have to book by Tuesday morning for the trip on Friday, so you have no idea what the weather will be like on the day. We can imagine if it's a sunny day with calm sea it would be the highlight of your week. Unfortunately the day we went it was overcast with a choppy sea, and you're on the catamaran for a minimum of 5 hours. There were a few people who regretted having so much to drink. I've never suffered from sea sickness before but even I was glad to get back on solid ground at the end. (The banana boat rides were HUGE fun though.)
If spending a day with a bunch of gay men is your idea of hell, then grab a bus from the Yumbo Center and go on a sight-seeing trip of your own. Buses to the east will take you to San Agustin (we found this to be pretty, but a bit dull) or the capital Las Palmas (an hour away). Someone emailed us to say that Las Palmas has the best beach on the island called Playa de Las Canteras; unfortunately it's a few miles from the central bus station where we were dropped off. Two friends of ours, Rainer and Volker, tried to walk from the Las Palmas bus station to Playa de las Canteras and say it took them 2.5 hours. They recommend you take the bus to Sta. Catalina and then you won't have to walk as far.
Alternatively, hair-raising bus rides to the west along roads cut into the cliffs will take you to Puerto de Mogán and Puerto Rico. These are very pretty (Puerto de Mogán especially so) and definitely worth a visit. You can also take a boat ride between the two, or a trip out to see the dolphins at set times of day. They make a refreshing change from the Yumbo, but fewer people speak English so bring a Spanish phrase book.
PALMITOS PARROT PARK has reopened. If you don't mind seeing birds in cages it's an acceptable day out.
Friends of ours have visited SIOUX CITY (a "Wild West" experience open from 10am to 5pm) and thought it was a waste of their money.
In July 2002 Tom from Dublin emailed to say "Both times that my boyfriend and I went to Gran Canaria we visited the AQUALAND water park (open daily from 10am to 5pm, entry 22 euros - www.aqualand.es). It's just off the main road in Maspalomas, miles before Palmitos Park. It's a decent water park with loads of slides, pools, sunbeds etc. Also, we were pleased to see it wasn't covered in kids. There were a few around when we were there but in general just couples and 20-30 somethings. Also some nice fit boys too. It's spread out over a large area, with lazy river stuff etc. and is great to spend a day once your tan has taken hold." Someone else went and said that the food is not that good so possibly take a packed lunch, and they'd got some bruises from the rides which were quite old. But they still enjoyed it and would go again.
| *RECOMMENDED* KUMO KI. Instead of going out for the day why not let the pampering come to you? Roland (who works under the name of "Kumo Ki") offers massages using a combination of four techniques: "Shiatsu", "Swedish massage", hand and foot massage, and "Reiki" (Roland is the first Reiki master on Gran Canaria). Massages can last 30 minutes (30 euros), 45 minutes (40 euros), 1 hour (50 euros) or 2 hours (90 euros). He visits most of the gay complexes during the week, so if you want a massage lasting up to one hour he will visit you in your apartment. However, if you book the 2 hour treatment he'll collect you in his car and return you home afterwards. This is a non-sexual service. For more information call Roland on 00 34 686 04 44 74 (outside Gran Canaria) or 686 04 44 74 (from the island), email: kumoki (at) hotmail.com or check out his website www.kumoki.com
Roland also works as an artist and his paintings have been exhibited around the world. His work is also included in the hardback book STRIPPED - THE ILLUSTRATED MALE (ISBN 3-86187-871-2). For more on his artwork go to www.art.kumoki.com
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 Our friend, Roland, who gives massages and paints great pictures |
The CLINICA IGUAZU is close the to Yumbo Center and most personnel speak good English. They are open 24 hours a day and also offer a dental clinic. We have used their services and found them quick and reassuring. However, the prescribed drugs at a nearby pharmacy cost more than the appointment. The address of the clinic is:
Tel: 928 764 894
There is an HIV/ AIDS organisation in Gran Canaria called ASOCIACION AMIGOS CONTRA EL SIDA, which has an office on the 4th floor of the Yumbo Center. To contact them phone 928 23 00 85 or 928 14 99 69 (from the island), emergency tel 695 578 004, or email: amigos (at) idecnet.com
Before leaving the subject of health, it's worth mentioning that we've noticed an alarming amount of unsafe sex taking place in the bars and clubs. Maybe it's the hot weather, the holiday atmosphere or - more sinister - the fact that some venues charge 50 cents for condoms. Worse, some don't have them at all. We can only emphasise the advice to travellers: take your own condoms and lube (or buy them in the many sex shops) and INSIST on using them. You really don't know what's doing the rounds and the island is a melting pot for the whole of Europe.
The most important thing you need to know about shops in Gran Canaria is that they shut for siesta when they feel like it and don't open until they want to. For those people who take a few hours to get over the night before and stumble off for breakfast around lunchtime, it can be frustrating to find shops shut until 6pm. You'll usually find one supermarket willing to open during the afternoon, but it's very hit and miss. Try to do your shopping in the morning or after 5pm if you want the majority of places to be open.
The common types of shops are:
Duncan and JL add: "We noted that prices were higher in the Cita Centre and slightly lower in the Yumbo BUT the exchange rate in March 2007 meant that there were no real bargains and prices were very similar to the best UK prices. Furthermore if one is stopped by UK customs you WILL be charged 17.5% VAT and they do watch flights from the Canaries specifically for this."
In Playa del Inglés the "local" dish seems to be grilled fish, chips and a small side salad. They don't cook anything inside an oven, so all meat is grilled or pan fried. Potatoes are boiled, fried or mashed. Salad is grown all year round, but root vegetables are more rare. The fresh fish is beautiful, but I once suffered food poisoning and the prime suspect was a chilled salmon mousse, so make sure your fish is cooked and hot.
We have to be honest and say Gran Canaria is the only place where we've had bad meals in restaurants. Quality varies enormously. If you avoid restaurants which have pictures of the food by the menu or where the waiters try to persuade you to come inside you can reduce your chances of being disappointed.
Here are a few Playa del Inglés restaurants we can recommend which also serve gluten free meals upon request. Don't rely on the waiter or waitress claiming that the meal is gluten free - you must insist that they check with the chef every time you visit. (You can download useful phrases about a gluten free diet in Dutch, French, German, Greek, Italian and Spanish from the Coeliac Society website at www.coeliac.org.uk)
In December 2008 Tony emailed to say he enjoyed LA LIGURIA on Avenida Tirajana (Iguazu complex): "great Italian food, fresh home made pasta and pizza, not costly, generally a gay crowd."
There seems to be no restriction on smoking in restaurants. Don't be surprised if halfway through your meal guests are seated at an adjacent table and immediately light up.
I've tried several gyms in Gran Canaria, but none of them is very large or has a good range of Olympic weights. If you find a Gold's Gym out there please let me know. The best gyms I've visited are as follows:
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Sea view from the Beach Gym |
As always, consider advertised opening hours in Gran Canaria as a rough estimate. Shops, gyms and restaurants often close for siesta/ maintenance/ holiday with no warning.
Gran Canaria must have one of the best beaches in the world. It takes 20 minutes to walk across sand dunes before you reach the sea. The dunes are over 20 feet high and we've seen people sledging down them. The beach stretches from Playa de Maspalomas in the west to Playa del Inglés in the east, with numbered stations for sunbathing all the way along. When we arrived we were told that the gay beach was "number 7" - what we weren't told is that there are TWO number 7's. The numbering system starts at 1 at the furthest west & east points, and increases in number as you reach the middle. The gay beach is on the western side, which is Playa de Maspalomas. If this is your first time to the beach ask a taxi to take you to the Plaza del Faro, a shopping centre at the furthest western point of the beach. Then start walking east until you reach spot number 7. You'll know it's the gay beach because the ratio of naked men to naked women suddenly rises dramatically and there's a big rainbow flag on the kiosk.
Duncan and JL emailed to say "There's a much simpler way to find the gay beach - follow the RED topped posts! For the gay cruising area in the dunes follow the BLUE topped posts. Also worth mentioning that the reason the beach clears by dusk is because of the sand flies which are vicious."
| The quickest way off the beach is to walk to the Riu Palace Maspalomas Hotel where there's a taxi rank. (The taxis won't take you if you are covered in sand, though.) The Riu Palace is huge and easy to spot from the beach. It is much harder to start at the Riu Palace and try and find the gay beach unless you know where you're going. (Although someone emailed to say that if you follow the line of gay men you can't go far wrong, and Dave says if you follow the red marker poles they will take you in roughly the right direction.) Half way between the sea and the Riu Palace are clumps of bushes which are popular with men who wish to sunbathe away from the wind. If that's what you're looking for just follow the footprints. |  Dunes at Playa del Inglés (Don't take your camera unless you want it filled with sand.) |
The Yumbo Center is a 3-storey open air concrete shopping centre and a big entertainment centre in Playa del Inglés. On our first visit it resembled a pink concrete crater but subsequent attempts to landscape the gap in the middle have made it much more attractive. It is so popular that if you say to any taxi driver "Yumbo, por favor" they will take you straight there without question.
By day the Yumbo Center is mainly heterosexual and you can visit duty-free shops, bars, ice cream parlours, banks and a couple of supermarkets. Many restaurants open in the evening with mixed clientele. After midnight the Yumbo turns almost exclusively gay as up to 50 gay bars, clubs and shops open through the night.
 Yumbo Center by day |
Don't expect any moments of cultural significance in the Yumbo. It's a tourist trap and you have to take it on that level. Bars compete for business by turning their sound systems up to deafening proportions, so your quiet candle-lit dinner could well be drowned out by karaoke bar three doors down. The music is a mixture of manufactured pop music and European sing-along summer hits.
Drag is still popular in the Yumbo, with gay and straight venues. If you like watching grown men wearing a dress, a wig and too much makeup miming to female pop singers you will LOVE the Yumbo. If you prefer to join in with the musical numbers you need to visit CENTER STAGE bar, one floor above ground level, which shows non-stop musicals and show-tunes on a widescreen TV. One wall is covered with posters from leather bars and events, whilst the other wall is covered in photos of film and singing icons. (I also think they pour the largest servings of spirits!) |
There are six bars that have advertised as "leather/ jeans/ boots" bars in the Yumbo Center. However, if you wear leather boots and a leather waistcoat (UK)/ vest (US) to any of these places you will be wearing more leather than 95% of the other customers. And if you wear more leather than that gay men will stare at you open-mouthed as you walk from bar to bar.
The standard way to dress in these bars appears to be trainers, jeans and a t-shirt. The only way you will ever be thrown out is if you refuse to buy a drink at the bar.
Having said that, there are slight variations between the six venues.
Ground Floor
One Floor Up
 CITA Center by day |
When we last went in 2006 there were several gay businesses in the CITA Center, which is a short (less than ten minute) walk from the Yumbo Center. However, in 2008 I received emails from three people saying the Cita Center was not worth visiting and most gay businesses there had closed. There is one gay bar there called CHAPS which seems to have a nude/ underwear dress code.
In December 2008 Tony emailed to say he recommends the CAFE WIEN in the Cita Center, which is located on the first floor at the back up the stairs from the open-air restaurant zone. "Just follow the boys and your nose to the best coffee and tea in Playa del Ingles. Located in the very tacky Cita Center, the boys start arriving at 3.45pm forgoing their last chance for love in the dunes and make the pilgrimage to Cafe Wien for cheesecake and a wonderful assortment of desserts. Get their early for the best seats and once you have claimed your table you make way to pick up your cake at the showcases, then order your tea or coffee from the waiter." (http://www.cc-cita.com/cccita/en/shops/)
(Page last updated 10th January 2010)
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